Bruntons Boatyard

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Moored on a historic stretch of Cochin's famed harbour , The Brunton Boatyard Hotel was resurrected from the remains of a Victorian shipyard. Today, it gives the modern traveller a unique opportunity to dwell amidst the shadow plays of 19th century history. The Brunton Boatyard Hotel is a looking-glass held up to the era of the 16th to the 19th centuries which were the time of the great sea voyages, an age when civilizations met. Cochin is the product of one of history's great tugs-of-war, as the powers of Europe struggled to dominate the spice trade, and the pepper of Kerala became, gram for gram, as precious as gold.
	For what is essentially a small and intimate city hotel, The Brunton Boatyard possesses a remarkable sense of scale, evident the moment you turn into the tiled forecourt. The lobby is a vault of sunlight and air, framed by arches and overhung with punkahs - enormous, old-fashioned fans of Indo-Portuguese origin. History spoke to us from every timber of the venerable boatyard of Geo. Brunton and Sons. Once among Cochin's most respected shipbuilding establishments, the boatyard had gradually fallen into disuse. But its location was perfect, on a quiet harbour-front deep in the heart of Fort Cochin, where every by-lane could whisper tales from the city's colourful past.
Here, we set about recreating the world of 19th century Cochin, using the precise building materials of the time - brick, lime, wood and terracotta. The broad, high corridor that rings the grassy central courtyard is an ever-shifting kaleidoscope. The reception area gives way to a lounge overhung with punkahs, then on to a billiard table. Turn a corner and you find yourself in an English tea room, the perfect place to take in a cuppa and soak in the atmosphere The hotel's nautical past seems to follow you around. On one wall, old Dutch maps, on another, a small navigation device, in the courtyard lawns, an ancient anchor. Walk further, turn a corner, and you find yourself outside the Armory Bar.
	Perhaps later, you could enjoy a sundowner here, with old Portuguese breastplates and musketry for company. A short saunter down the corridor brings you to a little doorway. Pass through and suddenly, the whole vista of Cochin harbour opens up beyond the pool's inviting waters. This is the spot to read a boring historical novel, work on your tan and watch the ships sail by, so close you can almost reach out and touch them. Crane your neck a bit and you can spot a serried rank of Cochin's famed fishing nets. They first made their appearance in 1350 a.d. and their much-photographed preying-mantis shapes form one of the city's most enduring images.

All of the Brunton Boatyard Hotel's 22 rooms overlook the sea, and so, by happy circumstance, do the en-suite bathrooms. Few pleasures rival a long hot soak in your tub of an evening, watching the dolphins play tag with the trading ships of the globe. Your super-rested muscles should then have just enough energy to carry you to the quaint four poster bed that dominates your room. (A little footstool has been thoughtfully provided to assist the process). You can choose from regular rooms, or the stately Harbour suites, where the appointments feature original colonial era artefacts.


	The warm woods and massive teak crossbeams are an obvious setting for a dinner that travels through time. The History Restaurant offers cuisine that reflects the cultural influences of Cochin - Portuguese, Dutch, English, Arab, Syrian Christian and Jewish. So sample a fusion of Dutch, Syrian Christian, Anglo Indian and of course, Keralan cuisines, these cuisines have been given a new lease of life, recreated faithfully each evening by chefs who did their research in the best place possible - with the old families of Cochin. The Terrace Grill , from where this picture is taken, dishes up fresh seafood that comes to us straight off the morning trawlers.
The Armoury Bar is much more than a place to drink. The harbour views are intoxicating, and for those who prefer milder refreshment, there's even a selection of fine teas. The Brunton Boatyard Hotel is your chance to dine from, literally, a melting pot. All the cultures that came to the Malabar Coast over three centuries can be sampled in a single evening. For if they came to carry away spice, they also brought a host of new culinary ideas, evolving over the years into a fusion cuisine dating from centuries before the term became fashionable.
To the basic melody of black pepper, ginger and cardamom, each group that came to Kerala added a counterpoint of its own. The Portuguese came to trade in spice, but left behind the ' Indian' red chili. The Syrian Christians brought a variety of meat dishes, specially stews, that co-incidentally, tasted fabulous with the local string hoppers.	The Jews found coriander both Kosher and delicious, so into the pot it went. And Dutch puddings were found to benefit greatly from a spot of fresh cinnamon. The Terrace grill offers the catch of the day and a host of grilled specialities, all served up with some splendid views over the harbour..

	Also near the pool is the hotel's jetty, and a word at the reception gets you a variety of cruising options to choose from. The heritage of Cochin is most evident around its enormous harbour, and this is a not-to-be-missed experience.
Situated in the heart of history, all the sights and sounds of Fort Cochin are just a walk away. You could also swim, overeat, play billiards, get an Ayurvedic massage or (we highly recommend this) relax completely and let your mind and body renew themselves
	Armed with a map (ask at the reception) and some comfortable footwear, you can tour the historic Fort Cochin area where the hotel stands. Sadly, little remains of the fort itself, but the other legacies of history are everywhere. Here, Vasco da Gama succeeded where Columbus failed, and found the fabled sea route to the Indies. His grave is still marked with a plaque and a brass rail, though his remains are back home in Portugal. Artefacts of that era abound in the old St. Francis' Church area, not far from the gravesite.

The histories of four cultures dog your footsteps in the by-lanes of Fort Cochin. Some of the key places of interest: 1. The Chinese fishing nets. 2. Pierce Leslie's Bungalow. 3. Old harbour house 4. Koder House 5. Delta Study 6. Santa Cruz Basilica 7. Loafers' Corner/Princess Street 8. Vasco House 9. VOC Gate 10. United Club 11. Bishop's House. 12. Remains of Fort Immanuel 13. Dutch Cemetary 14. Thakur House 15. David Hall 16. Parade ground 17. Cochin Club 18. St. Francis Church 19. Bastion Bungalow.	What to expect weather-wise: Jan - Mar : Cool and dry, a good time to come. April - May : Summer. Warm certainly, but on the other hand, it's perfect tanning weather. June - Aug : The monsoon months, with a drizzly, misty charm all their own. This is also the perfect time for Ayurvedic treatments. Sept - Dec : Pleasant and dry, usually the main tourist season.
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